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LONG ISLAND VINES Anytime Riesling As the German-born Eberhard Müller formerly of Lutèce and now executive chef at Bayard's in Manhattan and a Cutchogue resident, put it: " Semidry riesling and ham? For me, any day, any time." Though German rieslings are sold on Long Island, they can be passed up in favor of a homegrown Germanic version that is exactly right for holiday dinner: the delicious 2000 semidry riesling from Paumanok, in Aquebogue on the North Fork. Paumanok is not the East End's sole riesling producer, but after 10 years of making dry, semidry and dessert versions of the wine, it is perhaps the most experienced in the art. The grape, after all, runs in the blood of the German-born Ursula Massoud, who, with her husband, Charles, owns Paumanok. "On Ursula's mother's side of the family, they have been growing grapes and making wine in the Pfalz since the 1700's," Mr. Massoud said. Her cousins, he said, are vineyard managers at Muller-Cattoir and Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, two of the Pfalz's most distinguished estates. Lightly chilled, their 2000 semidry riesling ($15) is charming: a lovely confectionary bouquet and flavor, abounding in peaches, apricots, honey and marzipan, with an endless aftertaste. Young, upbeat, full of brio, this light wine (only 10 percent alcohol) is fun to drink; yet it is still quite young, still harmonizing, still not possessed of the nuanced curlicues that will turn up in six months. But, frankly, I can't imagine anyone being so masochistic as to hold it that long. If on Easter Sunday a fish course precedes the ham, Paumanok's 2000 dry riesling ($15), with its squeeze-of-lemon acidity, can come into play. Like its semidry sibling, it is light (11 percent alcohol) and slightly spritzy and displays a floral and fruity bouquet and flavors (young peaches especially). But it is leaner, more appetite-whetting and, in this phase of its career, simpler. A year hence, it will be more intricate; however, it will take a detective to find a bottle. HOWARD G. GOLDBERG |
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Wine Spectator - August 31, 2001 87 Fresh and floral, exuding violets and tropical fruit aromas and flavors on an off-dry, focused structure. Drink now. 1,014 cases made. |
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Winery Notes This wine has an impressive lineage. The 1995 and 1999 versions were both included in Bon Appétit's "Best of the Year" issue. The 2000 is just as good or better. It is redolent of fresh apples and peaches with a crisp character and pleasing finish. A total of 1014 cases were bottled on December 20 & 21, 2000. This wine is great to drink young and is available now as our first release from the 2000 vintage. Riesling is a very versatile variety when it comes to pairing wine with food. Try the 2000 Semi Dry Riesling with loin of pork, turkey breast, spicy tuna or shrimp, Asian foods, cajun and southwestern cooking, or whatever you think works best! |