LOVE chenin blanc. Unfortunately, that puts me at odds with much of the American wine industry, which gives little respect to this grape.
In the Loire Valley, however, chenin blanc reaches great heights. It is the grape of Vouvray and Savennières, versatile wines that, at their best, achieve wondrous complexity and elegance.
In the United States, chenin blanc is too often an anonymous blending wine, or sweet and flabby when it is occasionally allowed to step out on its own.
Every once in a while, though, I stumble on a good American chenin blanc that balances crisp acidity with a suggestion of sweetness, while showing depth that you rarely see in, say, sauvignon blanc. Best of all, these wines, at their most expensive, cost less than run-of-the-mill chardonnays.
I loved the 1998 chenin from Robert Pecota, which seemed to have the tart dryness and honeyed edge of a good Savennières. Shouldn't this gladden the heart of a chenin blanc lover? Nope, it was heartbreak. The winery has torn out its chenin vines and no longer makes the wine.
I hoped the chenin from Vinum Cellars would be a real discovery. The winery labels its 1999 chenin CNW Cuvée, for chard-no- way, and on its label proclaims, "It is our belief that chenin blanc (when made well) rivals some of the greatest white wines in the world." I'll go along with that.
So what does Vinum do with its chenin blanc? It blunts the grape's crisp character with oak, which makes as much sense as fattening a lean and graceful thoroughbred.
Oh well. It makes for an interesting combination, but I preferred the slightly sweet Hogue from Washington and the dry, crisp Paumanok from Long Island.
So what's a lover of chenin blanc to do? Look to the Loire, and, as far as the United States goes, keep searching.
ROBERT PECOTA, MONTEREY COUNTY 1998 $11
Luscious aroma; tart edge melds well with honeyed finish.
HOGUE, COLUMBIA VALLEY 1999 $10
Lemon-scented, rich texture, slightly sweet.
PAUMANOK, NORTH FORK OF LONG ISLAND 2000 $15
Gentle aromas of citrus and pear; delicate but deep flavors.
SNOQUALMIE, COLUMBIA VALLEY 1999 $8
Piquant lemon aroma; slightly sweet with long finish.
VINUM CELLARS, CNW CUVÉE, CLARKSBURG, WILSON VINEYARD 1999 $14
Distinct peach and honey aromas; clean, clear flavors turn oaky.
CHAPPELLET, NAPA VALLEY 1997 $11
Mild chenin blanc flavors compete with oak flavor and aroma.
Listed in order of preference. Prices are those paid in wine shops in the New York region.
