| Unfortunately, this wine has SOLD OUT at the winery. However, it can still be found at the following locations: Michael's - 802 East Main Street - Riverhead, NY - 631 727-7410 Pop's Island Park, LI Paumanok Vineyards is Long Island's champion of chenin blanc, the charmer of the Loire. The Aquebogue winery's 1998 Chenin Blanc is an early taste from the vintage:soft white wine, with less acidity than previous years. Appealing and recommended, before dinner and during, when the fare is light. Winemaker Charles Massoud produced about 180 cases. A bottle is about $14. -- Peter Gianotti, Newsday, April 4, 1999 |
LONG ISLAND VINES An Oyster Opener More than once, the quest for exactly the right Long Island wine to wash down shellfish - no small culinary issue on the East End - has pointed to Paumanok's chenin blanc. The grape (which performs best in Vouvray in the Loire) is rare on the North Fork and these days rare also in California where, once popular, it has fallen into disfavor. But that does not detract from
the utility of Charles and Ursula Massoud's 1998 version ($14), a
sharply acidic, grapefruity, slightly spritzy wine that will not interfere
with the mild saline flavors of oysters and clams but rather will
boost them. Ditto, shrimp and tender-flavored grilled fish with a
light butter sauce. The chenin blanc, Mr. Massoud observed, "can benefit from a little chilling, not, however, all the way in an ice bucket." His estate, in Aquebogue, "made 180 cases, and we expect that they will be sold out by the end of July," he said. HOWARD G. GOLDBERG |